Image Name: High Fashion Meets Streetwear
Back in the day, it used to be easy to decipher a team from its football shirt — even the obscure ones. A little bee on the crest would denote that it was Brentford. A Ginsters sponsor would give away that it was Plymouth Argyle. A Gryffindor color scheme would confirm it as AS Roma a mile off.
Now, if you’re walking through Shoreditch, squinting your eyes into infinity, you will be forgiven for not being able to make out… what… could it… surely that’s not… yes, that is a Beigel Bake football shirt.
The Rise of Unconventional Merch
The cult East London bagel shop is one of the latest to hitch its wagon onto the football shirt merch train, a train which includes everyone from musicians (Romy, Fontaines D.C.), to festivals (Love Saves The Day), to events promoters (Boiler Room), and now, apparently, bakeries.
The latest addition is an obvious departure from type. While football shirts used to be relegated to, well, football, this year they moved through the music space like wildfire. Every third person at a London day festival seemed to be wearing some kind of footie shirt, whether it be real club colors or not. Take Ibiza nightclub Pacha’s pink tiled football shirt created in collaboration with clothing brand Pompeii, for example, which had London men in a chokehold all summer long.
Fashion and Music Intersect
Now, they’re becoming the requisite form of merch for just about anyone. While Beigel Bake may be iconic, it has no tangible link to football. The shirt, they say, is so that Londoners can “represent this iconic location and help celebrate the 50th anniversary milestone.”
And while some of these football shirts do have links to the actual sport of football – singer and DJ Romy plays for grassroots football club Whippets FC, while Fontaines DC’s shirt is a collaboration with Dublin’s Bohemian FC – many do not. Instead, football shirts in 2024 appear to be taking the place of the slogan tee, a blank canvas on which people can represent the tribes they feel a part of.
Blokecore and the Fashion Industry’s Influence
According to Amy Francombe, a writer at Vogue Business, we can lay part of the blame at the door of blokecore (the trend of dressing in traditionally masculine, retro silhouettes with a heavy dose of football merch). “It was a precursor to this onslaught of football shirts that we’re seeing from all brands,” she says, “but also, this summer, we saw fashion and sports cross over in a way that we never have before.”
Francombe cites the Olympics as the driving force, noting the fashion industry’s growing stake in sportspeople, and continued presence throughout the event. “LVMH were the sponsors, Vogue was doing these huge parties before,” she says, adding, “I think we’ve really recontextualized sports and how fashionable it is recently.”
High Fashion Meets Streetwear
And, like any trend, it has also filtered down from the runways. Just as Andy from The Devil Wears Prada’s cerulean sweater is only six degrees separated from high fashion, Beigel Bake’s football shirt is actually a distant descendant of the catwalk. “People like Martine Rose have been doing it for ages,” notes Francombe. “They’re an item you could probably sell for £250 if you’re a premium brand and people would buy that, it’s like an entry-level luxury item.”
While football supporters will happily drop hundreds on their team’s latest kit launch, seeing prices like this for shirts not remotely affiliated with any actual football club might make them balk. Similarly, to some football purists, the idea of wearing any priced football shirt (Beigel Bake’s is a reasonable £40) that has nothing to do with football is a little laughable.
Image Name: A broader trend in fashion
The Demand for Cult Fashion
But there’s a demand for it. “They’re things that, before they were a fashion statement, were historically used to signal your support for something,” says Francombe. “Those bagel shops, people are obsessed with them, they have a cult following, I can see people wearing that football shirt almost as a ‘fan’ of it, rather than because they’re trying to tap into those sport codes that are popular at the moment.”
And, in the end, what’s the difference between signaling your love of a football club and your love of an eating establishment? “Some brands, even if they don’t have that alignment [to football] if they have a cultish following, it can still work,” she says.
The Future of the Football Shirt Trend
However, don’t expect the trend to last forever now that it’s hit the mainstream. With anyone and everyone hopping on the football shirt train, it’s sure to slow the momentum. “I think oversaturation has already hit,” agrees Francombe, “everyone has moved onto American jerseys now.”
A Broader Perspective on Fashion Trends
The shift from traditional football shirts to this new wave of branded merchandise signifies a broader trend in fashion and culture. You’re witnessing a fusion of sport, music, and lifestyle in a way that redefines how you express identity and affiliation. Fashion is no longer just about high-end brands or runway trends; it’s about the intersections of different aspects of life, creating a tapestry of influences that are both personal and communal.
Versatility and Nostalgia in Modern Wardrobes
For those immersed in the world of fashion, this trend offers a fascinating insight into how styles evolve and adapt. The football shirt, once a symbol of sports loyalty, has transcended its original purpose to become a versatile piece of clothing that speaks to broader cultural currents. It’s a reflection of how fashion can democratize symbols of identity, making them accessible and relevant to a wider audience.
From a fashion perspective, this trend also underscores the importance of versatility and adaptability in your wardrobe. A football shirt, with its sporty yet casual appeal, can be paired with various outfits to create looks that are both trendy and comfortable. Whether you’re at a festival, a casual gathering, or just walking through the streets of London, this piece of clothing offers a unique way to express your style and affiliations.
Embracing Retro Styles in Contemporary Fashion
Moreover, the trend highlights the role of nostalgia in contemporary fashion. The resurgence of retro styles and the incorporation of vintage elements into modern clothing speak to a longing for the past, even as you embrace the present. It’s a balancing act that fashion enthusiasts navigate, finding ways to blend old and new to create something uniquely their own.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the evolution of the football shirt from a simple sports uniform to a fashion statement is a testament to the dynamic nature of fashion. As you explore this trend, consider how you can incorporate elements of your interests and affiliations into your style. Whether it’s through a football shirt from a beloved bagel shop or a collaboration with a favorite musician, fashion offers endless possibilities for self-expression. So go ahead, experiment with your wardrobe, and let your clothing tell your story in the most stylish way possible.