Japan’s Car-Free Town That Autumn Hikers Love

Image Name: Japanese Alps

Kamikochi, tucked away in the 1,500m elevation Japanese Alps, is a perfect, car-free retreat with cold, clear mountain air, riverfront hiking paths, and lots of Japanese snow monkeys. There are no chain stores of any kind, year-round residents, or private residences in this seasonal vacation town; no McDonald’s, Starbucks, or Burger King. Rather, Kamikochi is renowned for its escape from the stifling heat that envelops most of Japan in the summer and for its magnificent autumn colors that shine in October.

Kamikochi offers an agenda filled with hiking, eating, and relaxing. It’s a place where you can immerse yourself in nature without the distractions of modern life. The town consists of a few clusters of hotels, restaurants, and shops, all situated along the Azusa River.

Historical and Cultural Significance
The quest for pristine natural environments unspoiled by mass tourism predates the social media era. In his 1896 book, “Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps,” the English missionary, climber, and conservationist Reverend Walter Weston echoed the sentiments of a Japanese writer who complained about foreign tourists rushing through Japan and posing as authorities on what they barely glanced at.

Weston popularized the term “Japanese Alps” and put the area that became Kamikochi on the radar of international tourists. The town’s popularity as a holiday destination for Japanese tourists spiked in 1927 with the release of “Kappa,” a novel set in Kamikochi by Ryunosuke Akutagawa, one of Japan’s most famous writers. In 1934, Chūbu-Sangaku National Park, home to Kamikochi and ten of Japan’s 21 peaks over 3,000m was established, and the area became known as the “most beautiful valley in Japan,” inspiring comparisons with California’s Yosemite National Park.

Conservation Efforts
Kamikochi has been a green getaway since 1975 when private cars and motorcycles were banned to preserve the town’s tranquility. Conservation efforts began a century earlier, in 1875 when the former logging town banned felling trees to preserve its natural beauty. Laws were passed to prevent the removal of alpine plants in 1909, and it was the first area in Japan to be formally designated as a “protection forest” in 1916. In 1963, the Kamikochi Beautification Association was established to address littering and poor tourist etiquette. By the ’70s, the number of hotels and inns was capped at 17, the same number that exists today (along with two campsites; there are no Airbnbs).

Accessibility and Accommodation
Almost everyone arrives in Kamikochi by bus. If you try to drive, you have to park about half an hour away and take a bus anyway. The only other options are to hike in or take a taxi, though few visitors choose these. A hybrid bus route to Kamikochi was established in 1994, leaving Takayama and Matsumoto, and tour buses were banned in 2005.

Upon arrival, you will find accommodation options like the Nishi-itoya Mountain Lodge, which offers private rooms and hostel-style bunk rooms. Other options, like the historic Tokusawa Inn, founded in 1885, require a one- to two-hour hike from the bus terminal with your luggage.

Image Name: Kamikochi’s Hiking and Nature

Hiking and Nature
Kamikochi offers a variety of hiking trails, from easy walks to challenging mountain treks. You can take three easy hikes, one for each day of your visit, and avoid the steep treks up Mt Jonen, Mt Chogatake, Mt Oku-Hotakadake, and others. On the first hike to Myojin Pond, you might encounter troops of mischievous Japanese snow monkeys while hiking along and near the river. Kamikochi is also a major birding destination, with Japanese bush warblers singing in the background.

Visitor Experience
In 2023, Kamikochi drew 1.3 million visitors, mostly Japanese. Despite the initial rush of tourists at the Kappa Bridge on a Saturday afternoon, the town didn’t seem overly touristy or spoiled. Many visitors are day-trippers who disappear by late afternoon, allowing you to enjoy the tranquility of the area in the evenings.

Local Insights
A local restaurant server explained that Kamikochi is only open to visitors from 27 April to 15 November because it’s too cold in winter. During the offseason, workers migrate elsewhere. The server shared her love for the area, highlighting the stunning scenery and natural beauty, particularly around Taisho Pond, a large body of water flanked by volcanic, snow-capped Mt Yakedake.

Autumn Splendor
Autumn is a particularly spectacular time to visit Kamikochi. The golden Japanese larch forests and the autumn-colored mountains of the Hodaka range are breathtaking. The sounds of the river flowing and the crisp mountain air create an atmosphere of serenity and natural beauty that is unmatched.

Conclusion:
Kamikochi, Japan’s car-free town, offers a unique and tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. With its rich history, stringent conservation efforts, and breathtaking natural beauty, it is a destination that appeals to nature lovers and those seeking a peaceful retreat. Whether you’re hiking along the Azusa River, observing the local wildlife, or simply soaking in the stunning autumn colors, Kamikochi promises an unforgettable experience.